Dennis Schaefer
* 2002 Silver Viognier, Vogelzang ($22): Completely typical viognier nose of apricot, peach and minerals; it has those esters that make it seem like it could pass for a fine perfume. It has a big impact on the palate, with lovely flavors of melon, peach, apricot and other stone fruits that finish soft on the back of the palate. Classic viognier that's a great partner with food.
* 2000 Silver Pinot Noir, Lake Marie ($40): Plenty of bright red and black fruits here to chew on, with a Burgundian earthiness to keep things interesting. The spice rack is in evidence here as well as a pleasant touch of decaying leaves and forest floor. But the lasting impression is that of concentrated fruit that shows good finesse.
* 2000 Silver Pinot Noir, Julia's ($45): Crushed berry nose, intense with flavor, but also very elegant and stylish. Its rich and dark flavors are still very much evident and, while it is soft and supple at this point, it still has room to develop. Almost syrah like in its raciness and depth.
* 2001 Silver Syrah-Mourvedre, Larner ($22): This first effort from the Larner Vineyard comes off very much like a good Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Tar, fresh asphalt and dark fruits on the nose, with dark fruits, including dark cherries, on the palate. Black pepper, spice, saddle leather and dried cherries also insinuate themselves into this heady, full-bodied mixture that really coats the mouth. Great to serve with grilled meats.
Look for the following wines to be released over the next 12 months:
* 2001 Silver Nebbiolo ($22): It's hard to reduce this wine to its components because it's already showing a myriad flavor facets, as well as complexity and depth. There is the nice ripe fruit, informed with a bit of saddle leather and aged meat, but what really makes the wine work is its scintillating acidity and great finesse.
* 2001 Silver Sangiovese ($28): Bright red fruits up front here, with plenty of cherry and strawberry, as well as spice, with a pinch of clove and cigar box. The fresh and ripe fruit flavors make this one so easy to drink right now, plus it's a great match-up for Italian cuisine.
* 2001 Silver Cabernet Sauvignon ($30): Dark currants and red/black berry fruits are the obvious aromatics. Round, rich and full-bodied in the mouth, with the berry side of the flavors coming through, permeated by hints of chocolate. It lets up a bit on the finish but the initial wave of flavors resonate on the palate, leaving an impression of sweet fruit and suppleness.
* 2001 Silver I Tre Figli (The Three Sons) ($35): A very special wine, this blend of cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and cabernet franc is a great amalgam of berries, spice and wood, but also shows a nice floral component, too. The sangiovese contributes the fruit forward strawberry flavors, but also a sense of velvet plushness. The cabernet gives the wine depth as well as the backbone and structure for aging. And the cab franc adds dark violet and spice flavors and supple tannins to the framework. A lovely and compelling wine that will only get better with bottle age.